Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is a surf and beach town on Costa Rica's southern Caribbean coast, close to the Panama border and about four to four and a half hours' drive from San José.
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is a surf and beach town on Costa Rica's southern Caribbean coast, close to the Panama border and about four to four and a half hours' drive from San José. You come here for the beaches between Cocles and Manzanillo, for rainforest right on the coast, and for the Afro-Caribbean influenced cuisine.The town belongs to the Talamanca canton in Limón Province. Locals usually just say "Puerto Viejo"; do not confuse it with Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí in the north of the country. In front of the town center, the Salsa Brava wave breaks over a reef, considered one of the most powerful in the country and reserved for experienced surfers.To the southeast, Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita, and Punta Uva line up, and at the end of the road lies the fishing village of Manzanillo on the edge of the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge. The small town beach, Playa Puerto Viejo, with its natural rock pools, is suitable for families; some other beaches have strong currents. To the north lies Cahuita National Park.Beyond the beach, cocoa tours, a visit to the Jaguar Rescue Center, and excursions to Bribri communities in the hinterland are available. Many travelers stay for several days, and the range of accommodations, cafés, and bars is correspondingly wide.
Sights in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
Discover the most important sights and attractions
Beach
1Playa Cocles
The beach starts a few kilometers southeast of the town and is the best-known surf beach in the area. Many surf schools give lessons here; the surf season with the best waves runs from December to March. Strong currents can occur in some sections.
The rescue center for injured, sick, and orphaned wild animals was founded by Sandro Alviani and Encar García and officially opened in 2008. It was named after its first animal, an ocelot, which its rescuer mistook for a jaguar. Visits are only possible with a guided tour; the approximately 90-minute tours take place mornings and are booked online. Touching and feeding the animals is not permitted.
The reserve starts at Manzanillo fishing village, at the end of the coastal road southeast of Puerto Viejo, stretching towards Panama. Guided hikes lead through coastal rainforest to coves and viewpoints. In 2014, the refuge's boundaries were changed, and settled coastal areas have since been excluded.
Cafe and bakery on Calle 215 in the town center, known for breakfast and lunch: banana-coconut pancakes, waffles, a jerk chicken sandwich, and daily soups. For desserts, chocolate is made in-house from cocoa beans.
A fish restaurant in town where many locals eat. The menu features whole fried fish, seafood with coconut rice, Caribbean lobster in season, as well as chicken, beef, and a traditional breakfast.
The South Caribbean's cuisine is distinct from the rest of the country: coconut milk, thyme, and hot peppers feature in many dishes.
Rice and Beans
Rice and red beans, cooked in coconut milk with thyme and hot pepper, traditionally the Sunday meal, with chicken, fried plantains, and coleslaw.
Rondón
Vegetable and seafood stew in coconut milk, a classic of Afro-Caribbean cuisine from Limón Province.
Patí
Spiced pastry pocket with beef filling, sold as a snack in bakeries and at stalls.
Agua de sapo
Refreshing ginger and cane sugar drink.
Culture of the Southern Caribbean
Afro-Caribbean HeritageMany residents are descendants of Jamaican workers who came in the late 19th century for railway construction and banana plantations. They brought with them an English Creole, called Mekatelyu here, Calypso and Reggae, as well as a cuisine featuring coconut milk and chili. It wasn't until the 1949 constitution that Afro-Costa Ricans gained full civil rights, and a road connecting this coastal section to San José has only existed since 1987.Bribri and NewcomersBribri people live on the outskirts of the town and in the Talamanca mountains; guided visits, for example to waterfalls, offer insight into their communities. Additionally, Costa Ricans from other parts of the country and many newcomers from Europe operate cafés, surf schools, and accommodations.
Beachfront bar and restaurant on the main street in the town center. Daily Happy Hour, tropical cocktails & dishes like grilled octopus and shrimp ceviche; evenings often become lively and last longer.
Getting ThereFrom San José, the road leads through Braulio Carrillo National Park via Limón to the Southern Caribbean; by car, you'll need around four to four and a half hours. The MEPE public bus stops in Limón and takes approximately four and a half to six hours; shuttles are also available.Getting AroundThe center is small and can be explored on foot. For the beaches towards Cocles, Punta Uva, and Manzanillo, it's best to go by bicycle or e-bike, which are available for rent everywhere; a 50 km/h speed limit applies on the coastal road. For day trips to Cahuita or Manzanillo, a rental car is practical.