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    Lesbos (Lesvos)

    Greece

    Lesbos (Lesvos)

    CityCulture

    Lesbos, at approximately 1,630 square kilometers, is Greece's third-largest island and still thrives on olive oil, ouzo, and sheep's cheese.

    by Felix Gillen

    1. Home
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    5. Greece
    7. North Aegean Islands
    9. Lesbos (Lesvos)
    Lesbos, at approximately 1,630 square kilometers, is Greece's third-largest island and still thrives on olive oil, ouzo, and sheep's cheese. Between Mytilini in the east and the Petrified Forest in the west lie extensive olive groves, two large bays, and a landscape that becomes increasingly barren and volcanic towards the west.You'll come for the ouzeries of Mytilini and Plomari, the mountain villages around Olymbos, the birdwatching at the Gulf of Kalloni, and the UNESCO Geopark in the west. For the entire island, you'll need at least a week.

    More districts in Lesbos (Lesvos)

    Molyvos (Mithymna)

    Molyvos (Mithymna)

    Molyvos, officially Mithymna, is the best-known town on the north coast of Lesbos. Stone houses with red tiled roofs stretch from a small fishing harbour up to a medieval castle, from which the view extends across the strait to the Turkish coast.You come for the castle, the harbour tavernas, and the combination with Petra, Eftalou, and the beaches of the north coast. The town is ideal as a base for exploring the north of the island.

    Sights in Lesbos (Lesvos)

    Discover the most important sights and attractions

    Mytilini and the Kastro

    1Mytilini and the Kastro

    Mytilene spans two harbours and is dominated by a castle considered one of the largest in the Mediterranean. The Kastro has Byzantine foundations, was expanded from 1373 by the Genoese Gattilusio family, and further enlarged after the Ottoman conquest in 1462. Within its walls stand remains of a mosque, a madrasa, and a gunpowder magazine.In the city, neoclassical merchant houses from the era of trade with Asia Minor shape the cityscape, alongside the domed church of Agios Therapon. The Archaeological Museum displays Roman mosaics, including the floor from the “House of Menander,” while the Theophilos Museum in Varia presents the paintings of folk artist Theophilos Hatzimihail.Ermou Street is the old bazaar street and connects the two harbours. The ouzeries along the promenade only fill up in the late afternoon; dining here is late.
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    Monastery Taxiarchis in Mantamados

    2Monastery Taxiarchis in Mantamados

    The Taxiarchis Monastery in Mantamados, in the northeast of the island, is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the East Aegean. An unusual icon of Archangel Michael is venerated here: it is not a a painted image, but a relief which, according to tradition, was formed by a surviving monk from earth and the blood of his murdered brethren after pirates raided the monastery.To this day, pilgrims bring votive offerings and place shoes before the icon. For the spring festival, faithful from all over Greece arrive.Mantamados is also known for its pottery and sheep's cheese, with several workshops in the village still operating. Modest dress is required for the church interior, and the monastery is located approximately 35 kilometers north of Mytilini.
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    Petrified Forest near Sigri

    3Petrified Forest near Sigri

    In western Lesbos lies one of the world's largest sites of petrified trees. Around 20 million years ago, ash flows from a volcanic eruption buried a subtropical forest, its wood replaced cell by cell by silicic acid. Preserved are not only trunks, but also root plates, branches, and annual rings.The area belongs to the UNESCO Global Geopark Lesvos Island. The Natural History Museum in Sigri, with its own outdoor exhibition, serves as the starting point; further sites are found near Bali Alonia and along the road to Antissa.The ground is stony and offers no shade; sturdy shoes and water are essential. From Mytilini, it's a good two-hour drive, with the final kilometers passing through a barren volcanic landscape.
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    Molyvos (Mithymna)

    4Molyvos (Mithymna)

    Molyvos, officially Mithymna, is tiered up a slope with stone houses, above which stands a Genoese-built castle. From its walls, the view stretches over the north coast to the Turkish coast opposite.The main street is partly covered by vine pergolas and leads past workshops and shops to the harbour, where tavernas are situated directly on the water. The town is a protected historic site, and new constructions are strictly regulated.Cars remain in the car parks on the village outskirts; the rest consists of cobblestones and stairs. In summer, concerts and theatre performances are held in the castle.
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    Agiasos

    5Agiasos

    Agiasos lies at around 500 meters on Mount Olymbos's northern slope, surrounded by chestnut and pine forests. At its center stands the pilgrimage church Panagia Agiasou, housing an icon revered since the Middle Ages. For the Marian Festival on August 15, pilgrims arrive from across the region.The village is known for its crafts: pottery, wood carving, and furniture making are still practiced here, alongside confectioneries offering spoon sweets and almond pastries.The alleys are narrow and paved; cars remain at the village entrance. Due to its high altitude, it stays several degrees cooler here even in mid-summer than on the coast.
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    Plomari and the Ouzo Distilleries

    6Plomari and the Ouzo Distilleries

    Plomari, on the south coast, is a leading Greek Ouzo center. Many distilleries have operated here since the late 19th century; some offer museums and tours with tastings.The town is a genuine small town with workshops, schools, and a riverbed dividing the town. Ouzeries line the waterfront, serving mezedes for hours.Agios Isidoros and Ammoudelli's pebble beaches are just minutes away. The drive from Mytilini around the Gulf of Gera takes about an hour.
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    City walks in Lesbos (Lesvos)

    Curated walking tours through the city's highlights, handpicked by experienced travel journalists.

    Mytilene: A Walk Through History and Lively Flair

    On this two-hour walk, discover the fascinating capital of Lesbos. From the lively harbour promenade and historic lanes to the imposing castle, experience the many-sided soul of Mytilene. Immerse yourself in the rich history and authentic Greek island life.

    ~2 Std.
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    Stops (7)

    Dining & Drinks

    1

    Kafeneion O Ermis

    The Kafeneion O Ermis, located at the corner of Kornarou and Ermou in Mytilini's old bazaar district, dates back to 1800 and has been run by the same family for four generations. Marble tables, wooden sofas, gold-framed mirrors, and furniture from Asia Minor characterize the space. The table is set with coffee, ouzo, and mezedes from the island cuisine.
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    2

    Apánkio

    The Apánkio is located on Eleftheriou Venizelou near the port of Mytilini and serves Greek home-style cooking with a focus on fish and seafood. It is mainly visited by locals, and the menu also includes vegetarian dishes.
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    3

    Valhalla

    The **Valhalla** on Mitropoleos in Mytilini is a beer bar with a grill kitchen, decorated with wood, Viking shields and axes. It serves meat platters, souvlaki and other grilled dishes, alongside a wide selection of beers.
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    Dining & Drinks

    Lesbos has three products of protected origin: olive oil, Ladotyri cheese, and the sardines from the Gulf of Kalloni. In addition, there's Ouzo, which here is not an accompaniment but the basis of its own culinary culture.
    Ouzo from Plomari

    Ouzo from Plomari

    The south of the island is Greece's largest Ouzo center; several distilleries have operated there since the 19th century. It's not drunk as a digestif, but rather savored for hours with mezedes, diluted with water and ice. Some establishments in and around Plomari offer tours and tastings.

    Sardines from Kalloni

    Papalina sardines from the shallow, low-salinity Gulf of Kalloni are smaller and fatter than elsewhere and bear a Protected Designation of Origin. They are served lightly salted, raw or grilled. In Skala Kallonis, the tavernas are right on the bay.
    Ladotyri Mytilinis

    Ladotyri Mytilinis

    The hard sheep's cheese matures in olive oil, hence its name Ölkäse. It's tangy and salty, served in cubes with Ouzo or grated over pasta. It is sold at Mytilini's market and in village shops.

    Olive oil

    Lesbos has an estimated eleven million olive trees; harvest is November to February. The Museum of Industrial Olive Oil Production in Agia Paraskevi displays a preserved communal mill and steam engine. Cooperatives in many villages sell directly.

    Mezedes and Sweets from Agiasos

    The Ouzo culture features a long array of small plates: marinated anchovies, fried chickpea balls, octopus, grilled peppers. In Agiasos, spoon sweets and almond pastries are also made, available in the local workshops.

    Cultural Heritage and History on Lesbos

    Sappho and Aeolian AntiquityIn antiquity, Lesbos was a center of the Aeolian Greeks, with the rival cities of Mytilene and Methymna. Around 600 BC, the poet Sappho and the poet Alcaeus lived here, whose lyric poetry is preserved only in fragments. The mosaics in the Archaeological Museum of Mytilini date from the Roman period, including the floor from the "House of Menander".Genoese and OttomansIn 1355, Lesbos passed to the Genoese Gattilusio family, who expanded the castles of Mytilini and Molyvos from 1373. Sultan Mehmed II conquered the island in 1462; Ottoman rule lasted until 1912. Mosques, baths, and parts of Mytilini's bazaar quarters date from this period, along with neoclassical merchant houses from the late 19th century.Painting, Ouzo, and CraftsThe folk painter Theophilos Hatzimichail, whose paintings of rural life hang in the Museum in Varia, hails from Lesbos. Olive oil and ouzo, especially from Plomari, define the economy and culinary culture, and pottery workshops still operate in Agiasos and Mantamados. For the Feast of the Assumption on August 15th, pilgrims travel to Agiasos.

    On-site exploring

    Buses and TaxisKTEL Lesvos connects Mytilini with Kalloni, Molyvos, Plomari, Eresos, and Sigri. Almost all lines radiate out from the capital; cross-connections between regions are rare, and outside the summer months, many services run only once or twice a day. Tickets can be bought at the counter or from the driver. Taxis are available in Mytilini, Kalloni, and Molyvos.By Car Around the IslandA rental car is practically indispensable for Lesbos, largely because the roads wind around the two gulfs and direct distances mean little here. Cars are available at the airport, in Mytilini, and in the larger resorts; during high season, booking in advance is advisable. The main roads are well-maintained, but the route from Kalloni to the west is isolated and winding, with petrol stations being rare there. For the drive from Mytilini to Sigri, you should allow a good two hours.On FootIn Mytilini, the Old Town between the harbor and Ermou Street is easily explored on foot; both the airport and ferry port are located close to the city.

    Accommodations in Lesbos (Lesvos)

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    Nearby

    North Aegean Islands

    North Aegean Islands

    The North Aegean Islands lie close to the Turkish coast and are among Greece's least crowded island groups. Lesbos, Chios, Samos, Ikaria, and Limnos are large enough for their own mountain ranges, wine regions, and port towns that remain inhabited even in winter. You travel here for mastic, ouzo, hot springs, and empty pebble coves, not for a postcard backdrop.
    Molyvos (Mithymna)

    Molyvos (Mithymna)

    Molyvos, officially Mithymna, is the best-known town on the north coast of Lesbos. Stone houses with red tiled roofs stretch from a small fishing harbour up to a medieval castle, from which the view extends across the strait to the Turkish coast.You come for the castle, the harbour tavernas, and the combination with Petra, Eftalou, and the beaches of the north coast. The town is ideal as a base for exploring the north of the island.
    Pergamon (Bergama)

    Pergamon (Bergama)

    Bergama is a small town about 100 kilometers north of İzmir, overlooked by the ruins of ancient Pergamon. You visit for its Acropolis with the steepest theatre of antiquity, the healing sanctuary Asklepieion, and the Red Hall in the town centre. Pergamon became UNESCO World Heritage in 2014.
    Chios

    Chios

    Chios, just a few kilometers off the Turkish coast, is the only place in the world where mastic, mastic tree resin, is traditionally harvested. This trade resulted in fortified mastic villages, Genoese estates, and a Byzantine monastery with World Heritage status.As Greece's fifth-largest island, it still thrives on shipping, agriculture, and trade; large hotel complexes are rare. You come for the villages in the south, the mosaics of Nea Moni, and the pebble beaches on the south and west coasts.
    Izmir

    Izmir

    İzmir, with around 4.5 million inhabitants in its province, is Turkey's third-largest city and the gateway to the Aegean coast. You'll come for the Kemeraltı bazaar district, the Kordon promenade, and its cuisine featuring Boyoz, Kumru, and Meze. The historic center is around Konak Square, with the Alsancak entertainment district to its north, and Karşıyaka across the bay.

    Sources & method

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