Tennessee is the long, narrow state stretching from the Appalachians to the Mississippi River, about 440 miles end to end. People come for the music, from country in Nashville to blues and soul in Memphis, and for Great Smoky Mountains, the most visited national park in the country.The state splits into three Grand Divisions, the same three represented by the stars on the state flag: East Tennessee, with Knoxville, Chattanooga and the Smokies; Middle Tennessee, with Nashville and rolling whiskey country; and flat West Tennessee, with Memphis on the Mississippi. I-40 ties all three together.
Most Tennessee road trips run along I-40, which covers about 455 miles from Memphis through Nashville and Knoxville to the North Carolina line. The Memphis-to-Nashville stretch is officially signed as the Music Highway. Ten days is enough for the three big stops:Nashville (2 to 3 days): the honky-tonks on Lower Broadway, the Ryman, the Grand Ole Opry and the Country Music Hall of Fame.Great Smoky Mountains (2 to 3 days): Cades Cove, Newfound Gap and Kuwohi, usually with Gatlinburg or Townsend as your base.Memphis (2 days): Graceland, the National Civil Rights Museum at the former Lorraine Motel, blues on Beale Street and barbecue.Chattanooga and Knoxville are on the way from Nashville to the Smokies, and the whiskey country around Lynchburg, home of Jack Daniel's, is southeast of Nashville. Spring (April and May) and October are the most comfortable times to go, with mild weather and fall color in the mountains. October is also when the Smokies are at their busiest.RV travelGreat Smoky Mountains: Cades Cove and Elkmont: The two big NPS campgrounds on the Tennessee side of the park. Cades Cove is open year-round and has a dump station; Elkmont is seasonal and has none. Neither has hookups or showers, and reservations on Recreation.gov are required. Any vehicle parked for more than 15 minutes also needs a parking tag.Nashville KOA Resort: 2626 Music Valley Drive near Opryland, about 20 minutes' drive from downtown. Plenty of full-hookup sites and a paid shuttle downtown, so the RV can stay parked.
Great Smoky Mountains National Park straddles the Tennessee–North Carolina line in the Appalachians, split roughly half and half between the two states, about an hour southeast of Knoxville.
Tennessee food is hearty and Southern. In Nashville the lines are for hot chicken, in Memphis for ribs.
Nashville Hot Chicken
Fried chicken brushed with a cayenne-heavy spice paste after it comes out of the fryer. The dish traces back to Thornton Prince in the 1930s, and his family still runs Prince's Hot Chicken. Start with a medium heat level the first time; "hot" is plenty for most people.
Memphis Barbecue
Memphis barbecue is all about pork, slow-cooked in a pit. Ribs come "dry," with a spice rub and no sauce, or "wet," mopped with sauce, and pulled pork is everywhere. Rendezvous (since 1948) and Central BBQ are the classics. The World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest takes over the riverfront every May during Memphis in May.
Tennessee Whiskey
Since 2013, state law has required anything labeled Tennessee whiskey to be made in the state and filtered through maple charcoal before aging, the Lincoln County Process. The best-known distilleries are Jack Daniel's in Lynchburg and George Dickel near Tullahoma, and both offer tours. Book Jack Daniel's online ahead of time for weekends.
Meat and Three
The classic Southern lunch: one meat and three sides such as mac and cheese, collard greens or candied yams, with cornbread and sweet tea. In Nashville, Arnold's Country Kitchen is the standard-bearer, recommended by the Michelin Guide and open for lunch only.
Culture and History
Few states have shaped American popular music the way Tennessee has. The radio show that became the Grand Ole Opry first went on the air in Nashville in 1925 and is still broadcasting. Elvis lived in Memphis, where Graceland is now a museum, and Beale Street is one of the places the blues grew up.The civil rights movement is close to the surface here too. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated at the Lorraine Motel in Memphis in 1968, and the National Civil Rights Museum now occupies the site.In the east, Appalachian culture sets the tone: bluegrass, crafts and the log cabins you'll see in Cades Cove. Watch the time zones. Most of East Tennessee is on Eastern Time, while Nashville and Memphis are on Central, an hour behind.Many rural counties still restrict alcohol sales. Lynchburg, home of the Jack Daniel's distillery, has been dry since Prohibition.
Getting Around
You'll need a car. Intercity buses only link the big cities, and there's no public transit inside the national park.Flying in: Nashville (BNA) is the main airport. Memphis and Knoxville have smaller ones, and Knoxville is about 40 miles from Gatlinburg and the Smokies.Drive times: Memphis to Nashville is about 3 hours on I-40, Nashville to Knoxville roughly 2.5 to 3 hours, and Knoxville to Gatlinburg about an hour. Expect weekday rush-hour backups around Nashville and Knoxville, and heavy traffic on holiday weekends.Time zone: Heading east from Nashville, you lose an hour on the Cumberland Plateau.National park: Any car parked in Great Smoky Mountains for more than 15 minutes needs a parking tag ($5 a day, $15 a week, $40 a year).