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    Phanom Rung Historical Park

    Thailand

    Phanom Rung Historical Park

    Point of InterestCulture

    Prasat Hin Phanom Rung stands on the rim of an extinct volcano in Buriram province and is one of the most complete Khmer sites in Thailand.

    by Felix Gillen

    1. Home
    3. Destinations
    5. Thailand
    7. Isan (Northeast Thailand)
    9. Phanom Rung Historical Park
    Prasat Hin Phanom Rung stands on the rim of an extinct volcano in Buriram province and is one of the most complete Khmer sites in Thailand. The temple was built in several phases from the 10th to the 13th century and was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The mountain was considered an image of his abode, Kailash.Access is via a paved processional road, across a bridge lined with Naga snakes, and up a staircase to the main prang. Lintels and pediments with scenes from Hindu mythology are preserved at the portals, including the Narai-Bandhomsindhu lintel, which returned from Chicago in 1988.On a few days annually, the sun aligns through all 15 doorways at sunrise or sunset. Crowds are huge then. Shade is minimal; come early morning. The smaller sanctuary Prasat Muang Tam lies a few kilometers away at the mountain's foot.

    Sehenswürdigkeiten

    Discover the most important sights and attractions

    1Phanom Rung

    Auf einem erloschenen Vulkan errichteter antiker Khmer-Tempel mit kunstvollen Schnitzereien und Panoramablick.
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    2Prasat Kuti Rishi Ban Khok Mueang

    Small laterite and sandstone structure near Ban Khok Mueang, below the mountain and close to Muang Tam. Structures of this type are known in Thailand as Kuti Rishi and are considered chapels of the hospitals (Arogayasala) that King Jayavarman VII had built in the 12th and 13th centuries. A tower, an enclosure wall, and a gatehouse are preserved. A brief stop.
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    3Prasat Ban Bu

    Remains of an inn in the plain at the foot of Phanom Rung. It stood on the old road between Angkor and Phimai and offered travelers lodging. Much smaller than Phanom Rung and without tourist amenities, but located in the village.
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    Essen & Trinken

    1

    Cafe de Phanom Rung

    Café in HW8P+3MW.
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    2

    Khrua Baan Mae by Tuanjai

    Restaurant in 20 หมู่ 17 บ้านบุ ต.จรเข้มาก Amphoe Prakhon Chai.
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    3

    Che Phen (Aahan Tam Sang)

    Restaurant in GWJW+R8C.
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    4

    Suan Hom Khanun (Jackfruit Garden)

    Restaurant in บ้านโคกเมือง GX4G+M87.
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    5

    green restorant

    Restaurant in GXM9+CMM บร.3054 Tambon Chorakhe Mak.
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    Dining and Drinks

    At the parking lot and in the village below the mountain, there are stalls and simple eateries offering noodle soups, rice dishes, and drinks. Culinarily, the area belongs to Isan, with Khmer influences from the border region — grilled, spicy, and with sticky rice instead of jasmine rice.

    Som Tum and Kai Yang

    Papaya salad with grilled chicken and sticky rice, the region's standard combination, available from stalls at the mountain's base. Spiciness adjusted upon request.

    Larb

    Minced meat with roasted rice flour, mint and lime, served lukewarm. With sticky rice and raw vegetables, a complete meal.

    Aharn Tam Sang

    "Cooked to order": fried rice, noodles, egg with basil. The fastest and cheapest option in the mountain villages.

    Hillside Cafes

    Below the temple, you'll find a few cafés overlooking the plain. Handy for the hot midday hours.

    History and Significance

    Phanom Rung was built between the 10th and 13th centuries, when the Khmer Empire of Angkor extended its influence far beyond present-day Cambodia. The oldest structures are two 10th-century brick temples, the central sanctuary dates from the 12th century, and libraries and further buildings were added under Jayavarman VII in the 13th century. The complex was situated near the road between Angkor and Phimai.The temple was dedicated to Shiva. The paved processional axis, the Naga bridge serving as a boundary between the human and divine spheres, and the staircase form the ascent to the sanctuary. On lintels and pediments, you can see scenes such as the dancing Shiva and the reclining Vishnu.The Narai-Bandhomsindhu lintel was stolen in the 1960s and reappeared in 1967 at the Art Institute of Chicago. After long negotiations, it was returned in 1988 and has been back in its place ever since.The Fine Arts Department restored the complex from 1971 to 1988, during which the stones were returned to their original positions. The historical park was opened in May 1988.The axis is aligned so that on certain days, the sun shines through all 15 doorways; during sunrise around early April and early September, and during sunset in March and October. The exact dates are announced annually by the park administration.

    Arrival and on-site

    The temple is located south of Buriram, about an hour by car, and south of the small town of Nang Rong. An asphalted road leads to the parking lot below the plateau.By public transport, you can travel by bus or minibus from Buriram or Korat to Nang Rong, then by motorbike taxi or chartered Songthaew to the temple and back. There are no direct routes to the park.From the parking lot to the sanctuary, it's several hundred meters along the processional axis and up several stairs, with no shade. Come shortly after opening or in the late afternoon, and bring water and a head covering. Shoulders and knees should be covered.Opening hours and admission: daily approximately 7 AM to 6 PM, 200 Baht for foreign visitors. The combo ticket with Prasat Muang Tam costs 250 Baht. Please check current prices on site.

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    Nearby

    Buriram

    Buriram

    Buriram, in southern Isan, combines Khmer heritage with professional sports. The province is known for Phanom Rung Historical Park, a Khmer temple complex atop an extinct volcano, and the nearby sanctuary Muang Tam with its water features.On the outskirts of the city are the Chang International Circuit, where MotoGP races, and the stadium of Buriram United. On race and match days, accommodation is scarce.For the temples, early morning and late afternoon are best, as there is little shade. Phanom Rung and Muang Tam are best combined with your own vehicle in one day. In the city, the markets offer a good impression of daily life and Isan cuisine.
    Surin

    Surin

    Surin, located in the south of Isan, is closely linked to Thailand's elephant culture. The province is shaped by the Kui people, who have caught and guided elephants for generations. The annual Elephant Round-up in November is the city's biggest event.Beyond that, Surin is a tranquil provincial town. At the Talat Mai market, you'll find Isan cuisine and silk, still hand-woven in the surrounding villages.The surrounding area features Khmer sanctuaries like Prasat Sikhoraphum with its five brick towers. The most pleasant time to visit is the cooler dry season from November to February.
    Phimai Historical Park

    Phimai Historical Park

    The Phimai Historical Park in Nakhon Ratchasima Province encompasses the grand Khmer temple complex Prasat Hin Phimai. The main prang was begun around 1080 under King Jayavarman VI, with additions made in the 13th century. Unlike most Khmer temples, Phimai was dedicated to Mahayana Buddhism from the outset.The main prang, built of light sandstone, stands within a rectangular walled enclosure with four gateways. The complex opens to the south, towards the old Royal Road to Angkor. Lintels and pediments display Buddhist and Hindu motifs.The complex is located in the heart of Phimai town and is easily accessible on foot, while the National Museum showcases sculptures and lintels from the region. On the outskirts of town is the Banyan Grove Sai Ngam, with food stalls by the water. Phimai is a day trip from Nakhon Ratchasima.
    Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat)

    Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat)

    Nakhon Ratchasima, commonly known as Korat, is one of the largest cities in Isan and, for travellers, primarily the gateway to the region. It lies beyond the ascent to the Khorat Plateau and is well-connected by train, bus, and road.From the historic city centre, parts of the city wall, the moat, and the Chumphon Gate are preserved. In front of it stands the Thao Suranari Monument, dedicated to a local heroine who is said to have organised resistance against troops from Vientiane in 1826. Here, she is honoured daily with flowers, incense sticks, and music.Korat is a good starting point for excursions: northeast to the Khmer complex Phimai, southwest to Khao Yai National Park. South of town, Dan Kwian village produces ceramics from iron-rich clay.Culinarily, the city is known for Pad Mi Korat, fried rice noodles. The easiest way to try them is at the night markets in the centre.
    Isan (Northeast Thailand)

    Isan (Northeast Thailand)

    Isan is Thailand's Northeast and the country's largest region: a vast, agricultural plateau bordered by the Mekong to the north and east. Touristically, it is less developed than the coasts and the north, and you'll less often get by with English.Culturally, the region is close to Laos. The spoken language is related to Laotian, as are its music, festivals, and cuisine. On the plate, you'll find Som Tam, Laab, and sticky rice, usually spicier than in Central Thailand.From the time of the Khmer Empire, several temple complexes are preserved in the south of the region, including Phanom Rung and Phimai. Additionally, there is silk weaving and its own festival calendar, such as the Rocket Festival at the start of the rainy season and the Candle Festival in Ubon Ratchathani.The cooler dry season from November to February is the most pleasant time to travel. From March to May, it gets very hot.

    Sources & method

    • Photos: Unsplash. Each photo carries its credit.
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