Phimai Historical Park

Nakhon Ratchasima, commonly known as Korat, is one of the largest cities in Isan and, for travellers, primarily the gateway to the region. It lies beyond the ascent to the Khorat Plateau and is well-connected by train, bus, and road.From the historic city centre, parts of the city wall, the moat, and the Chumphon Gate are preserved. In front of it stands the Thao Suranari Monument, dedicated to a local heroine who is said to have organised resistance against troops from Vientiane in 1826. Here, she is honoured daily with flowers, incense sticks, and music.Korat is a good starting point for excursions: northeast to the Khmer complex Phimai, southwest to Khao Yai National Park. South of town, Dan Kwian village produces ceramics from iron-rich clay.Culinarily, the city is known for Pad Mi Korat, fried rice noodles. The easiest way to try them is at the night markets in the centre.

Buriram, in southern Isan, combines Khmer heritage with professional sports. The province is known for Phanom Rung Historical Park, a Khmer temple complex atop an extinct volcano, and the nearby sanctuary Muang Tam with its water features.On the outskirts of the city are the Chang International Circuit, where MotoGP races, and the stadium of Buriram United. On race and match days, accommodation is scarce.For the temples, early morning and late afternoon are best, as there is little shade. Phanom Rung and Muang Tam are best combined with your own vehicle in one day. In the city, the markets offer a good impression of daily life and Isan cuisine.

Isan is Thailand's Northeast and the country's largest region: a vast, agricultural plateau bordered by the Mekong to the north and east. Touristically, it is less developed than the coasts and the north, and you'll less often get by with English.Culturally, the region is close to Laos. The spoken language is related to Laotian, as are its music, festivals, and cuisine. On the plate, you'll find Som Tam, Laab, and sticky rice, usually spicier than in Central Thailand.From the time of the Khmer Empire, several temple complexes are preserved in the south of the region, including Phanom Rung and Phimai. Additionally, there is silk weaving and its own festival calendar, such as the Rocket Festival at the start of the rainy season and the Candle Festival in Ubon Ratchathani.The cooler dry season from November to February is the most pleasant time to travel. From March to May, it gets very hot.

Prasat Hin Phanom Rung stands on the rim of an extinct volcano in Buriram province and is one of the most complete Khmer sites in Thailand. The temple was built in several phases from the 10th to the 13th century and was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The mountain was considered an image of his abode, Kailash.Access is via a paved processional road, across a bridge lined with Naga snakes, and up a staircase to the main prang. Lintels and pediments with scenes from Hindu mythology are preserved at the portals, including the Narai-Bandhomsindhu lintel, which returned from Chicago in 1988.On a few days annually, the sun aligns through all 15 doorways at sunrise or sunset. Crowds are huge then. Shade is minimal; come early morning. The smaller sanctuary Prasat Muang Tam lies a few kilometers away at the mountain's foot.

Surin, located in the south of Isan, is closely linked to Thailand's elephant culture. The province is shaped by the Kui people, who have caught and guided elephants for generations. The annual Elephant Round-up in November is the city's biggest event.Beyond that, Surin is a tranquil provincial town. At the Talat Mai market, you'll find Isan cuisine and silk, still hand-woven in the surrounding villages.The surrounding area features Khmer sanctuaries like Prasat Sikhoraphum with its five brick towers. The most pleasant time to visit is the cooler dry season from November to February.