Ninh Bình is a city in the southern Red River Delta, about two hours by bus or train south of Hanoi. You come for the surrounding karst landscape, where you travel by rowboat on rivers and through caves amidst rice paddies and limestone cliffs.
The centerpiece is the Tràng An Landscape Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (mixed cultural and natural) since 2014. It spans around 6,226 hectares, encompassing the ancient capital Hoa Lư, the waterways of Tràng An and Tam Cốc, and protected forests. Discoveries in the caves prove that people have lived here for over 30,000 years. From 968 to 1010, Hoa Lư was the capital of Vietnam before the court moved to Thăng Long, today's Hanoi.
The city itself is primarily a transport hub. Many travellers stay overnight in Tam Cốc village, where boat docks, restaurants, and bicycle rentals are located. Good times to visit are September to November and March to May. Local specialties include goat meat from the karst slopes and Cơm cháy, deep-fried crispy rice.
Sights in Ninh Binh
Discover the most important sights and attractions
Attraction
1Tràng An
From a pier roughly 7 km west of the city, locals row you in sampans for about three hours across rivers and through several caves amidst karst cliffs. Tràng An is the heart of the eponymous UNESCO World Heritage Site. Early in the morning, waiting times are shortest.
Tam Cốc means "three caves": The approximately 90-minute boat trip on the Ngô-Đồng River takes you through the caves Hang Cả, Hang Hai, and Hang Ba, past rice paddies and limestone karsts. Very nearby lies Bích Động, a complex built in 1428 on Ngũ Nhạc Mountain featuring three tiered temples.
From 968 to 1010, Hoa Lư was Vietnam's capital under the Đinh and early Lê dynasties. The roughly 300-hectare site houses temples for Đinh Tiên Hoàng and Lê Đại Hành; about half an hour is enough for a visit.
Around 500 steep, shadeless steps lead to a karst peak offering views over the Tam Cốc Valley and the Ngô Đồng River. The namesake cave at its foot is small, the ascent is worthwhile for the view.
Next to the old pagoda on Bái Đính Mountain, an extensive new temple complex was built between 2003 and 2010. A long covered walkway is lined with 500 Arhat statues, and a 36-ton bronze bell hangs in the bell tower. The complex is located about 15 kilometers north of Tam Cốc.
Hoa Lư served as the capital from 968 to 1010 under the Đinh and early Lê Dynasties. Two temples remain: One honors Đinh Bộ Lĩnh, founder of the Đinh Dynasty, while the other, about 300 meters north, commemorates Lê Hoàn, founder of the early Lê Dynasty. In 1010, Lý Công Uẩn relocated the court to Thăng Long.The Tràng An caves preserve shell middens, stone tools, and hearths, revealing how hunter-gatherers adapted to climate and sea level fluctuations over 30,000 years.
Getting There and Around
Train: From Hanoi it takes about 2 hours to Ninh Bình station, which is about 7 kilometres from Tam Cốc.Bus and Car: Buses arrive at Ninh Bình bus station, from where you continue by taxi. A private car from Hanoi takes about 1.5 hours.Locally: Distances between Tam Cốc, Tràng An, Hang Múa and Hoa Lư are short, and many travellers use bicycles, motorbikes or taxis. The boat trip in Tam Cốc lasts about 90 minutes, in Tràng An around 3 hours. In Tràng An it is worth being at the pier before 9 am, as queues form later. For safety on boat trips and on the roads, see the UK FCDO Travel Advice (gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice).