Riverside (Chao Phraya)

Bangkok is built on water, and the Riverfront is where this is still evident. The Chao Phraya was at once a trade route, transportation artery, and address; only with the construction of roads did the city turn away from the river. The Charoen Krung, laid out from 1862 as Thailand's first modern road, runs parallel to it and was home to foreign trading houses, consulates, and shipping companies.The Trading CommunitiesAlong this stretch, Portuguese, French, British, Chinese, and Indians settled, and the architecture shows it: the Assumption Cathedral, the principal church of the Archdiocese of Bangkok, built in its current form between 1910 and 1918 on the site of the French mission; the Holy Rosary Church, founded by the Portuguese, further north in Talat Noi; old warehouses, and the General Post Office. Today, riverfront hotels stand between them.Talat NoiNorth of here, between Charoen Krung and the river, lies Talat Noi, a Chinese-influenced residential and workshop district where auto parts shops, shrines, old houses, and murals coexist in close quarters. The district has become a popular photo spot, but it is primarily inhabited and operational: people work in the open workshops you pass by.Creative DistrictSince the 2010s, the section between Si Phraya and Saphan Taksin has developed into an art and design district. In converted warehouses and shophouses, you'll find galleries, workshops, and cafés. Once a year, the district hosts the Bangkok Design Week. These new uses are also displacing older businesses and tenants.In Talat Noi and the workshop alleys: Ask before photographing people or entering courtyards.In churches and Chinese shrines, the same rules apply as in temples: covered shoulders, no flash photography, do not disturb worshippers.

The district stretches along the river, long and narrow. Instead of by rail, you often get around fastest here by water, as Charoen Krung is narrow and traffic often grinds to a halt.Express Boat: Chao Phraya boats depart from Sathorn Pier, located beneath Saphan Taksin BTS Station, heading north and stopping at Oriental, Si Phraya, Ratchawong, and Tha Tien, among others, up to Nonthaburi. Pay attention to the flag color: Orange is the standard service, Blue is a more expensive tourist boat that only stops at the main piers.BTS: Saphan Taksin on the Silom Line is right by the river and serves as the interchange point for boats. From there, it’s about a fifteen-minute walk north to Assumption Cathedral.MRT: The Hua Lamphong and Wat Mangkon stations on the Blue Line are within walking distance of Talat Noi.Hotel Boats: Riverside hotels operate their own shuttles between their private piers and Sathorn Pier.Cross-river Ferries: Small ferries cross to the west bank at several points, including to ICONSIAM and Khlong San. They run frequently and cost little.On Foot: The Sois (alleys) between Charoen Krung and the river are short and winding; not all lead to the water. It's best to explore Talat Noi without a fixed destination.Timing: A late afternoon boat trip is pleasant. During rush hour, the boats are crowded.