Faubourg Marigny and Bywater are the two neighborhoods just downriver from the French Quarter, across Esplanade Avenue. Come for the live music on Frenchmen Street, the candy-colored Creole cottages, and an evening under string lights in the wine garden at Bacchanal.The Marigny runs from Esplanade to the railroad tracks along Homer Plessy Way (formerly Press Street); Bywater picks up on the other side. Bernard de Marigny began selling lots on his family's plantation in 1806, so the streets are a little younger and more modest than the Quarter's. Frenchmen Street sits right at the near edge, about a 15-minute walk from Jackson Square.Bywater is quieter and more artsy: murals, small galleries, cash-only dive bars and Crescent Park on the river. The Spotted Cat Music Club on Frenchmen is covered on the main New Orleans page.
Sights in Marigny and Bywater
Discover the most important sights and attractions
Park
1Crescent Park
The approximately 2.2-kilometer-long park stretches along the Mississippi from Marigny to Bywater, with paths for walking and cycling and views of the cargo ships and the skyline. From Piety Street, a large rusty arch bridge leads over the tracks into it. In the evenings, it is one of the best spots for sunset over Downtown.
The small park on Elysian Fields Avenue lies right at the end of Frenchmen Street and makes a good meeting spot before evening clubs open. Under the old oaks, locals sit with their dogs during the day; sometimes brass bands rehearse here. From here, you'll see the typical Marigny Creole Cottages in the side streets.
Brandan 'Bmike' Odums transformed a 3,250 sq m warehouse at 2941 Royal Street into a gallery. Large-scale murals depict civil rights activists, revolutionaries, and New Orleans locals; the exterior is also painted. The hall has no AC, so bring water in summer; check website for hours.
Artist Dr. Bob's studio at 3027 Chartres Street is filled with colorful artworks made from found objects, bottle caps, and old planks. He is known for his hand-painted signs bearing the inscription “Be Nice or Leave,” which you'll see hanging in many city bars. A great spot for a souvenir that genuinely hails from New Orleans.
Breakfast and lunch eatery at the corner of Gallier and Chartres Street in Bywater, a Southern cuisine staple since 1998. Famous for its Praline Bacon, they also offer Grits, Po'Boys, and brunch dishes. Expect waits on weekends; weekdays are usually faster.
Wine shop at 600 Poland Avenue on the edge of Bywater: Up front, you pick a bottle; in the large backyard under string lights, you drink it, ordering cheese boards and small dishes at the kitchen counter. Almost every evening a band plays. On warm weekend evenings, tables fill up early; afternoons are more relaxed.
Brooklyn-style pizzeria at 617 Piety Street, offering thin-crust pizzas whole or by the slice, plus pasta, salads, and vegan options. Enjoy your meal at simple tables indoors or outdoors. Convenient for an affordable bite after a stroll through nearby Crescent Park.
In the 1800s the Marigny was home to Creole families, tradesmen and immigrants. You'll see Creole cottages built right up to the sidewalk and shotgun houses, with rooms lined up one behind the other. Old live oaks shade St. Roch Avenue and Elysian Fields.Starting in the 1980s, Frenchmen Street grew into the strip where locals go to hear music. Several clubs sit side by side, often with little or no cover; the etiquette is to buy a drink per set and tip the band when the jar comes around.Bywater is known for public art. At StudioBe, artist Brandan "Bmike" Odums turned a warehouse into a gallery of murals of civil rights figures, and on the second Saturday of each month the galleries along St. Claude Avenue open together for an art walk.
The jazz club at 626 Frenchmen Street is the most formal on the street: Upstairs in the hall, guests sit at tables and listen to two sets per evening, mostly modern jazz from local greats. Tickets are required and can be purchased online in advance, which is advisable on weekends. Downstairs, there's a bar and restaurant serving Creole cuisine.
Small bar with a stage at 536 Frenchmen Street, where Jazz and Swing are usually played early in the evening, often without an entrance fee. It also offers cocktails and a snack menu with items like Korean Fried Chicken. Since there are few tables, early evening is the best time if you want to sit and eat.
Neighborhood bar in an old corner house at 4229 Dauphine Street in the deep Bywater, known for live jazz and blues in a very small space. Cash only. The bar is off the main nightlife streets; for late-night trips to and from, it's best to take a taxi or a ride-share service.
From the French Quarter it's about 15 minutes on foot down Royal Street to Frenchmen. The heart of Bywater is another 20 to 25 minutes beyond that.Streetcar: The Rampart-St. Claude line skirts both neighborhoods. Fare is $1.25, exact change or the Le Pass app.Bus: The No. 5 Marigny-Bywater bus runs right through both.Bike: It's flat, and Blue Bikes has docks in both neighborhoods.Late at night: A cab or rideshare back from Bywater beats a long walk down empty blocks.Bring cash: a few spots, including Vaughan's and the po'boy counter at Frady's, don't take cards.
